PHOTO COURTESY OF CELINE
Michael Rider unveiled his spring 2026 debut for Celine on the eve of Paris Haute Couture Week. A masterclass in evolution, this quiet homecoming speaks volumes about the future of the storied French fashion house. Clearly, the once-design director of its ready-to-wear line under Phoebe Philo is setting the bar exceptionally high.
PHOTO COURTESY OF CELINE
Right from the get-go, Rider’s approach was a deliberate refusal of shock tactics often associated with a changing of the guard. Instead, he presented a display of preppy classics, Parisian tailoring and subtle nods to Celine’s diverse past. Altogether, the collection of 72 looks formed a cohesive and desirable collection.
His debut at Celine’s Parisian headquarters on 16 Rue Vivienne also felt deeply personal and intentional. Through knotted silk show invitations, a giant foulard canopy, as well as the layering of multiple scarves throughout, Celine hinted at a gentle unfurling of a brand new chapter. What’s more, the collection pays homage to the brand’s multifaceted legacy without resorting to simple rehashes.
Philo-philes have reason to rejoice, with subtle references to broad-shouldered, pinched-waist blazers and fluid trench coats. Not forgetting the welcome return of an east-west bag that recalls a hybrid of the Luggage and Phantom. Rider also cleverly inserted Slimane-isms, via jeans, trousers and leather jackets boasting that rock-chic sensibility, albeit with a softer touch.
PHOTO COURTESY OF CELINE
Accessories also played a crucial role. Silk scarves in a mix of prints and textures were omnipresent, draped casually and knotted under collars. Stacking gold-tone jewellery without restraint, charming trinkets and chains hinted at a new level of playful adornment.
Practical oversized bags further underscored a commitment to utility in everyday fashion. At the re-see, guests could also get a glimpse of some of the accessories, and it was interesting to see familiar favourites like the Big Bag and Clasp making a comeback in reworked shapes and brighter hues.
Of course, no Celine show is complete without a star-studded celebrity attendance. This included ambassadors such as V, Park Bo Gum and Suzy Bae, alongside Shishi Liu, Kristen Wiig, Naomi Watts and Earn Earn. All of whom added warmth to the front row seats at Michael Rider’s spring 2026 debut show that was also warmly received by critics and social media.
